Dressing Fashion in Classical Period - A Case Study with《Pride and Prejudice》
The 2005 film Pride and Prejudice, adapted from Jane Austen's novel of the same name, tells the love stories of the five daughters of the Bennet family, English gentry in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The author's advocacy for equality in marriage and relationships remains a valuable perspective, both in her time and today.
Beyond its narrative, the film offers a glimpse into the lives of the British middle class during that era. Join us as we travel through time to explore the popular fashion of the period and appreciate the charm of Neoclassical culture.
The Rise of Neoclassicism
Neoclassicism emerged in 18th-century France as an artistic movement that quickly spread across Europe and America. It was a reaction against the excesses of Baroque and Rococo art, while also seeking to revive the ideals of ancient Greek and Roman art. As a result, early Neoclassical women's fashion was characterized by simplicity and elegance, starkly contrasting the ornate and elaborate Rococo style.
The Chemise Dress
The chemise dress, also known as Robe Chemise, was a loose-fitting, high-waisted dress made of fine white cotton. The waistline was raised just below the bust, often accompanied by a bodice layer. The sleeves were short, typically in the puff or Ionic chiton style, often exposing the arms. To compensate, long gloves reaching the elbows were fashionable.
Pride and Prejudice Fashion
Who wouldn’t dream of wearing such a beautiful dress?
The Empire Style
The Empire style, a continuation and evolution of Neoclassical fashion, featured high waistlines, slender skirts, and deep necklines adorned with layers of ruffles, lace, and frills. The intricate and luxurious designs emphasized the bust, with the waistline rising just below the ribs.
Pride and Prejudice Elegance
The Empire-style dresses, paired with meticulously styled hair, highlighted the beauty of Elizabeth and her sister Jane.
Neoclassical Hats
Women’s hats during the Neoclassical era came in various styles, including straw hats, turbans, and bonnets. The bonnet, made of fabric or straw, was often decorated with artificial flowers or ribbons and tied under the chin with a ribbon.
The Bennet Family’s Bonnets
The scene of Mrs. Bennet and her four daughters wearing bonnets is both heartwarming and adorable.
The Shawl
The shawl was an essential accessory in Empire-style fashion. Common materials included cashmere (a fine wool from goats), lightweight wool, white silk, or gold-threaded fabrics.
Pride and Prejudice Shawls
Even the simplest shawl could be worn with elegance by Elizabeth.
Men’s Fashion During the French Revolution
During the French Revolution, men’s fashion shifted away from the heavily embroidered, ornate clothing, oversized wigs, and decorative swords of the past. Instead, it embraced the simpler, more functional styles of the English bourgeoisie and aristocracy.
The Frock Coat
The frock coat came in two styles: one with a horizontal cut at the waist, forming tails at the back, and another with a diagonal cut from the high waist to the back.
Pride and Prejudice Men’s Fashion
The frock coat’s design visually raised the waistline, making men appear taller and more dignified.
The Cravat
The cravat, made of thin cotton, linen, or silk, was about two meters long and often edged with lace or embroidery. It was worn by wrapping it around the neck twice and tying it in a bow. Four common tying methods included the Byron style (a loose bow), a quick and simple knot, the Irish style (a tight knot), and the Eastern style (tied at the back).
Pride and Prejudice Cravats
The unique cravat accentuated a man’s charm.
Pride and Prejudice Fashion Summary
From the chemise dresses that highlighted the graceful figures of the Bennet sisters to the frock coats that emphasized the tall, handsome silhouettes of Mr. Darcy and Mr. Bingley, these iconic garments offer a glimpse into late 18th- and early 19th-century Britain. Against the backdrop of the Enlightenment, people sought inspiration from ancient Greek and Roman culture, embracing simplicity, nature, and a revival of classical ideals, giving rise to Neoclassicism.
Conclusion
Travelling through time and reflecting on history, we notice an intriguing pattern: history seems to repeat itself, especially in terms of aesthetic preferences. From the intricate details of the Rococo period to the simplicity of Neoclassicism, and the ongoing tension between consumerism and minimalism in the 20th century, each era has its unique beauty. Whether it’s the elegance of complexity or the charm of simplicity, every style has its appeal.
Which fashion style do you prefer? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
